Recently a lot of Apparel companies are asked to reconsider their supply chain. This is because major investors are interested in issues on human rights in manufacturing. The Xinjiang cotton is typical topic. Some people say there is forced labor.

Just on last week, it reported that the U.S. customs suspended import of UNIQLO shirts due to the relation with Xinjiang cotton. Actually, the company officially insisted that Xinjiang cotton is not used for their production and asked to release suspends, however the U.S. side did not accept since the proof of not existence of forced labor is not enough.

Of course, forced labor should not be agreed and respects for human rights are seriously important. As long as we see Biden’s voice or some current news, unfair labor practice seems to be existed in Xinjiang. But who had confirmed completely actual conditions in that area?

There is suspicious matter. Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) announced forced labor in Xinjiang region last year, and it caused large boycott toward major apparel companies, like H&M and NIKE. However, BCI deleted such a statement in their website before we know. Also, we should consider Shanghai office of BCI strictly objected official announcement of last year. What happened? It is not able to explain Xinjiang cotton issue from only one word. If there is not solid fact, Biden’s speak which the U.S. would impose sanctions to China may be regarded as political method.

It is also concerning suspension of Xinjiang cotton use could damage the economy of the area. BCI stopped certify not only south area where people picking cotton, but also northern area where is already mechanized. Could elimination of the largest industry in the area solve the matter of human rights?

The comment of Mr.Ooe, president of major Japanese apparel company, SANYO is suggestive.

“Cotton cultivation has also aspect as basis of livelihood in the local. We make sure of which activity is correct for corporate social responsibility.” (quote Nikkei article, with my translation)

Human rights issue is important and there is no way to know the fact in Xinjiang. But when it contains just political purpose and there is no consideration for people who live there, some human rights activities are just “fashion”. We should be skeptically sensitive with one-side enthusiasm.